Located a few hours north of Port-au-Prince, Lestè is an area of Haiti that has been periodically ravaged by droughts, hurricanes and flash floods. There are stories of families who have ate dirt cookies to get through the famine. The geophagists warn of the damage that this can do to young tummies without asking why families are forced to resort to these survival tactics in the first place. Never is there any mention on CNN or in USA Today of the five-century long colonial earthquake that has shook and ravaged Haiti long before the natural disaster that occurred in January of 2012.
I first came to Lestè in the year 2000. I had met a Haitian friend Widson Etienne who was studying at a monastery in Santo Domingo where I was a teacher, journalist and organizer. We worked together in defense of Haitian people’s human and constitutional rights in the Dominican Republic. He invited me to travel with him and meet his family in Haiti. We developed some curriculum together that exposed Columbus and the rest of the colonial bandits for the rapists and tourists that they were. He had invited me to dialogue with some peasant organizations who were struggling against the privatization of their land. I learned a great deal from Widson’s family and community.
Though I had fond memories of my visit, I was not able to return to Widson’s village for many years. This past summer I found myself back in Haiti doing work against the U.N./U.S. occupation. It dawned on me that I was only a few hours north of Lestè. I was not able to call or give any advance notice to Widson’s family of my arrival. I thought “Well what the heck? What is 14 years in the grand scheme of things?” In a city of only 40,000 someone is bound to know someone. Otherwise I can just make some new friends, right?
Reunited
A pickup truck — functioning as a bus — transported us across a bridge marking the dividing point between Gonaive and Lestè. The bus ride reminded me of the fascination many Haitians have with foreigners. There are a number of reasons for this. Haitians have been taught they are inferior. Many people see migration to the US — or really to anywhere outside of Haiti — as the only way to save themselves and their family. An average American’s purchasing power is 100 to 300 times that of the average Haitian. Any interaction with a foreigner then is a step in the direction of hope.
Many Haitians have only seen foreigners in the World Cup or in a movie so they would compare me to television personalities. Some kids said I looked like Zinedine Zidane — the Algerian soccer player — while others argued that I was a clone of Jean Claude Van Damme the actor. Haiti is good for one’s self-esteem in that way, you always get compared to somebody famous.
The skies were overcast and I asked if they thought the skies would soon open up. “No. It never rains here” was the reply. I forgot where to get off to find my old friends. I waited until there was a big gathering of people and I dismounted the vehicle. A traveling companion inquired if I know where I am going? I respond with a feigned confidence “Yeah I’ll figure it out.” I took three steps and asked a young man with headphones and a hoody if he knew Widson Etienne. His face lit up. “That is my uncle. Is that you Dan-yel? It is me Samson.”
“Jackpot!” I thought. I knew I could track the Widson’s family but I never thought it would be that easy. It was almost a letdown. Part of the adventure is being lost in time, in another galaxy. Three steps and three seconds? I thought I would have to dig a bit more. Samson skipped his return to Gonaives to study and led me back to his family’s home.
As we walked through the market, the cutest 2 1/2 year old baby boy appeared by my side and took my hand. An outsider would have sworn he was my nephew the way he latched on to me. “Where is his mother?” I asked Samson. “Why is he clenching my hand and walking with me?” Soon we were now 10 minutes walking from where I found him. Samson told me his name was Ti-Ralph, laughing and assuring me “your new-found companion will find his way home. In Lestè, everyone knows everyone.” We picked up an assortment of Haitian fruits, including a watermelon with the seeds in tact which you can rarely find in the U.S. now-a-days.
We reached Widson’s home. I had not seen them in over a decade but they instantly recognized me. They welcomed me back into their home. I sat down and we began to reminisce. They asked me all about Widson and his beautiful wife and children in Hartford, Connecticut. They took me in like family. Neighbors and their children gravitated over to the house to see what the commotion was. A friend from far away was big news in Lestè.
It was time for a shower. There are different notions of privacy in the countryside. Granmè or Nana Yvonne gave me a bucket of water and instructed me to bathe in a little makeshift chamber right behind where the children were playing and the adults were preparing dinner. I was just out of the view of three generations of a family and I was expected to shower?
Tonton Makenley struck up a conversation with me about Haitian women as I bathed. “Do you like Haitian women? How are they in bed? Sweet, aren’t they?” Highly embarrassed, I carried on with my shower. People were accustomed to having less privacy. Going to the bathroom was similar. People just didn’t look. Sometimes children wandered around out of nowhere and began to stare at me in compromising moments.
No shower ever felt as cleansing as that bucket shower after taking on the dust and devastating sun of Okap Aysyen. A majestic peace came over me as I sat down to share some dinner with my long-lost friends and enjoy the evening serenity.
A Quiet Night Interrupted
Barely thirty minutes had elapsed when Tonton Makenley passed me a cell phone. Widson’s brother and other nephew motioned for me to bring it to my ear. I heard a familiar voice in Kreyol half yelling and half laughing at me on the other end: “You white bastard who doesn’t bathe you! Why didn’t you tell me you were going to Haiti you old vagabond! You have ruined my life.” It was Widson calling from Hartford, Connecticut. He has discovered that I was back in his hometown. So much for my quiet entrance and departure. My cover was blown!
“It is ok to insult foreign devils but leave their local sycophants and puppets alone. You never know whose territory you are in. You never know who pays whose salary and who has assassinated who.”
This stuck out to me the most. I think it is important to always remember that no matter how much you may agree or disagree with a specific person or group of people, you must always be respectful and mindful of your surroundings. It is beyond the fact of trying to avoid hurting someones feelings. You simply just never know who is around and what their position is exactly.
Unfortunately USA and CNN news only transmit what they wan but, the real true. Getting to a point of eating dirt cookies, and no light at night time its traumatised. What is the government doing for them?Obviously not enough. With this article It prove me one more time that what is televised on tv the majority of time is not the bigger picture.
I enjoy reading this article and I agree completely with it. It is so sad that sometimes we don’t appriciate things in this country while in Haiti there is rarely any electricity. It is also sad that sometimes others want you to do things for them when you know it’s not true and its a lie. I think that only those who are real humans would understand and would not a lot others to do bad to the rest.
Romina H.
It was very brave of the writer to stand up to Widson and his campaign team. Shaw went into Haiti vulnerable and open minded and still remained genuine and true to himself, despite being in a potentially dangerous, foreign country. Does the writer feel any remorse for sabotaging Widson’s campaign? At the moment was Shaw’s conscience blinded by the campaign team’s perks?
He was just using you. He wants you to campaign for him and basically lie but he isn’t doing what he’s supposed to. Cassandra M
I thought that it was interesting how some behaviors are universal despite our cultural differences. Just like a politican in the United States Widson was willing put aside everything he stood for previously in order to get votes.It is amazing because usual when that happens the politician usually can never go back to real issues when they abandoned them during the campaign. The article makes me wonder if maybe Widson did have good intentions for Leste and wasn’t just a stooge for the establishment.
I agree with the way you handled the situation presented to you. It takes a lot of courage for you to just go to haiti on a random visit and then begin to campaign for a long time friend. I do think your very very lucky for just being able to find widsons family so fast, but hey we all have our days. You did the right thing by not continuing the election and speaking the truth to those people. In my personal experience going to the dominican republic my family has to walk around with our heads high and be very cautious of what we do in public. My family is one of the richest in my town, and they have a lot of property and run many campaigns for different foundations. Thats only in dominican republic though. once we get on that plane back home to the U.S we turn back in to regular citizens living a normal life. C.M
It angers me that people continue to exploit Haiti considering the extreme poverty that exists there. Not only foreigners, but its own people through what Professor Shaw calls “Politricks.” I agree with Professor Shaw in that only the people can save the people. It is true that in history only when large groups of people come together to set changes can a change truly be made. Because of politricks, countries like Haiti, the Dominican Republic, and other poor countries in the Caribbean will never progress and have economic stability. The Dominican Republic and its government really upsets me as well. I feel that certain politicians in the island have made a mockery of their current situation. President Hipolito Mejia, for example, was simply a joke and an embarrassment to the Dominican people. How can we continue to allow these imbeciles to assume a role of power in our countries? How can we continue to ignore the poor academic and financial advancements of our people? How is it that you can go to university for years in the Dominican Republic, earn a degree in psychology, and end up working as a limpia bota? It makes absolutely no sense.
Very interesting article. I would like to travel and experience the things you experience. Besides the bad experience. But it sounds really cool visiting other countries experencing what the countries experience so we can learn to appreciate that we have a home unlike most haitains live on the street and are in poverty.
Michelle santana
I find it funny the way you describe the transition from being in the slums to being a •made man• all at a phone call. It is quite shocking to the point of disbelief almost to hear that their are people living in this way. It takes a great deal of courage to speak out against your friend and the way that the government has corrupted the people of Haiti but also give hope or some faith to the young children struggling to oppose the government and give them something to fight for. Great piece.
-RBG
I find it very interesting that you only came to Haiti to enjoy a little of the culture in its raw state and you ended up being a spokes person for your friend in America. He wanted to become this powerhouse figure for Haiti not because he wanted to obtain “everything for everyone.”, but to boost his social standings. He is what most political figures are, lying and selfish. The fact that he is not even qualified to run a region is also a factor to his belligerence. He only fixes and sells cars. I am glad that you didn’t tell lies for him and spoke on what you believed in. If you didn’t you would have ben no better than him and Haiti would not be even the slightest enlightened or economically better than it was before. I also liked the part where the little boy grabbed your hand and followed you to your destination. Unlike the United States where plenty of things can happen to a child who follows a stranger or walks home by themselves, the fact that they live in such dire conditions already they don’t live in fear as you stated in today’s class.
Articles like this hit home the most , for some people you really have no clue what other people go through in countries, we automatically think we live in bad communities but let myself or anyone else try and live just one night like the people from Haiti. Some people cannot even function one day without electricity especially electronics unlike these people.I also like in this article as you speak up for the people and there rights as you do in general. Great article
“Widson refuses to accept that I can only be who I am. I can only say what I believe in. So opportunistically focused on power, he cannot conceive that I have a mind of my own”. This statement stood out to me the most because althought as individuals we often share the same vision as our friends, but It is important for one to have a mindset of their own and be able to think logically in tricky and selfish situations that put us in a awkward position.
One thing I have to say is you are one brave man. Most people wouldn’t have even thought of going through and campaigning like you did and speaking in front of people in a completely different country. It’s shows how you are very verisitle, getting throwin into a situation and making the best out of it. which also showed how strong you were to voice your actual opinion to the people not something someone had wrote for you
Amazing article. It was very brave of you to stay true to yourself and your beliefs despite the situation you were forced into. Too often these fake politicians get away with all of these false promises and hope to these people that often don’t know any better just to boost themselves socially. Thanks for standing up for them!
I laughed really hard at the vagabond comment from your friend Widson, I’ve heard that term thrown around by my parents so much when I was younger, usually referring it to someone without employment or drive. As I read the article I was able to visualize it with the narrative style of Anthony Bourdain. The human spirit of the Haitian’s is unwavering, in how despite the conditions they are casted into, they can still share, laugh and make you feel as family. Great stuff.
I truly love this article and Mr. Shaw has presented a very genuine account of life in Haiti from anthropological approach and cultural relativistic perspective. We in United States take so many things for granted that in other countries are considered luxuries. I love how he says, “A majestic peace that came over me as I sat down to share some dinner with my long-lost family and enjoy the evening serenity.” He literally calls them a family. This article took me back to my childhood in Pakistan where society operates in a very similar manner–people live in small communities, and everybody knows everyone in the town–there is so much charm in walking to the other side of the city and people greeting you by your name. We need more people like Mr. Danny who are brave enough to put themselves in other people’s shoes; this world would be a much better place if everyone had the capacity to do so.
No one should feel inferior because of where they live, or even the amount of money they have. Still, the article contained a very interesting story. It is always nice to get in touch with an old friend, or rather, for an old friend to get in touch with you.
I believe this article talks about a lifestyle of third world countries such as Haiti, even more parts of these kind of countries that has lower statuses. It seems as if these parts of Haiti and even other countries that have the same conditions as Haiti, are not giving any attention or particular respect to help their communities and conditions within.
This article was an amazing piece to read. It showed that Professor Shaw’s affection towards Widson’s family was genuine after so many years. He was very brave to go without really remembering where exactly they lived, especially because a place like this could sometimes be dangerous for a foreigner. The family’s response to his visit was very welcoming. Countries such as Haiti may lack financial riches but are very abundant in what matters the most, such as being loving, genuine, and humble. People from these countries will take in a stranger offer them their home, their food, and compassion without expecting anything in return. We need more people like Shaw who are willing to stand up for these people and get them their rights back. They shouldn’t have to be deprived of what by nature belongs to them.
I found the use of the term “Politricks” very interesting. It is hard to see foreign countries exploit Haiti, but it is even harder to see its own political figures do so. It is amazing how the help of a white man from America would help promote your friend as a real political figure. What bothered me was how your friend had all these luxuries ready for you at your beck and call, while there are families living in subpar living conditions and can barely afford food. It was brave that you stayed genuine to who you were and did not lie in favor of the campaign. Did the campaign really have good intentions for Lestè or was it all a front to gain the support under false impressions?
Such a great moment go share. It must have been exciting to go back after 14 years and Wilson’s family still remembers you. Having to bathe and go to the bathroom the way you did must have felt different for you. This just shows how people live in other countries and how they operate compared to us in the U.S.. Overall it sound like you enjoyed yourself and they were happy to see you again even if its been 14 years.
“As we walked through the market, the cutest 2 1/2 year old… appeared by my side and took my hand. You would swear he was my nephew the way he latched on to me.”
It amazes me how humble and welcoming their community is. The little boy had no idea who you were, but being that anyone besides their own was so valuable he just went and tagged along. Sure some would point out he was child and that all children are friendly , humble and naive, but the fact that you didn’t have the child’s mom yelling “ get away from that stranger “ says a lot about how regularly welcoming that community is. How almost anyone but their own is welcomed. It’s almost as though they have more hope in other than each other
I found this article very interesting. Haitians are stereotyped as delinquents, mean etc. But the way you described them when you went back to visit, they sound humble, caring and its a side of them that media doesn’t really show. What they do mention though is always the negatives, like how they live, the dust cookies they eat. But you have to remember that you could only do so much with the little you have.
I think it is unfortunate how this Tonton Makenley character was asking you about what you thought about Haitian women in a sexual way. Out of all the topics in the world he decided to begin a conversation with that. Correct me if I am wrong,I am assuming that there were follow up comments made about going out and finding some women that night or something along those lines. It upsets me because those comments instead of glorifying Haitian women it dehumanizes them, making them seem as no more than just sex objects. He could have said “Do you think Haitian women are beautiful?” but instead he said “How are they in bed, do you like them?”. When a man from a certain country speaks about the women of his own country in a negative way to in this case a foreigner, it creates this stigma of these women.
Very interesting article I must say. I agreed when you stated that Columbus and the rest of the colonials were evil rapist. I was glad that you were bringing about attention to the matter. When I was reading this article I thought that you were very brave to just go back to Haiti after so long and simply try and find your way back to your friends, any other person would have been scared and intimidated by how long the Journey might take.
It is interesting to see Haiti in a different light. I did not know how much Haiti has been affected by natural disasters. I find it amazing that a family that is not your own can take you in without hesitation. In New York City people do not even like to give money to the homeless. A family that you have not seen for over 10 years can just treat you like your own is amazing. You can tell that here hardships have made them so much more loving and compassionate for other people.
As I read through the article I began to think how different the culture and the way people are around each other. It is sad that many of the news stations and journalist portray Haiti as a country that is decimated by poverty and non-structured government, it is good to see another aspect. The individuals are amazed by foreigners and when the see people from America they are filled with hope. This has given me a new outlook on Haiti.
This article really helped me to imagine what Haiti is really like, not the way it is portrayed in the media which is often negative. That kind of hospitality is something you can’t find just anywhere. The people of Haiti seem to really appreciate life regardless of what they have. After reading about the Haitians and their welcoming and caring attitudes, I think the U.S. could learn a thing or two from Haiti.
This reading has changed the way I view Haitians. You described them to be sure humble for the things they have even for the little things. I was amazed on how a group of people can excepted a outsider and treat them as one of their own without hesitation. It shows the difference of worlds between the third worlds and the first. For example in the United States its a rare moment when someone helps out another person whether it’s by helping carrying a bag or giving a dollar to those in need.
I disagree with some comments regarding Widson only using you to get ahead. I think he should have at least given you the option to accept or decline his offer to be the face of his campaign. But I did enjoy reading this piece because it shines light on a different side of how Haitian people are living, they are loving and welcoming people and this article is able to clearly illustrate this. The fact the Professor Shaw is viewed as a political figure in Haiti says a lot about the mental set up of people around the world. They see someone foreign as a way out because of the cycle of thinking a certain group of people are better than others. But Haiti is not the first or even the last country, nor is Widson the first or the last person to seek help from friends to get ahead or make a name in society.
It is amazing how you travel and your propose to traveling is to experience first hand how other cultures live as well as to help them in any way possible. It is not fair that people have to want to leave their home, to have to work to save their families. There should be other ways for families to survive and not exploiting them. I admire that you gave the family hope, and that even though 10 years have passed since you last went over there, you did not forget them and still kept them in mind and were eager to go back, awesome job prof. Shaw.
This was an interesting article to read. I like how these people are. It was surprising to me that they were very welcoming. They are not rich, but are very friendly and helpful to each other. They don’t put money at the top of the list. They enjoy what they have and do what they can to help others. Spending bad times together makes people more close to each others. It is important that we try to help these people too.
To me this article showed how much different the people there are than here. We go about our daily lives barely remembering what we had for breakfast, let alone remembering people we have met a couple of years back. The family not only recognized you, but treated you with the no less hospitality than they would their own family member. In my perspective this is a positive byproduct of tradition and perseverance through hardships together.
In the passage, where you said “Any interaction with a foreigner then is a step in the direction of hope.” drew a picture in my head where the people would look at you as if you were there to change their lives or maybe one day they can get out of Haiti and come to the U.S. That your presents there gives them faith that there is a better life out there somewhere. When I went to the Dominican Republic I experienced something similar to it as well. When you go to the countryside of D.R. your presents gives them hope that they can travel too. Traveling to other countries is a great experiences although the people I lived stayed with back in D.R. didn’t have a lot they were always willing to share with me and always wanted to make conversation with never a dull moment.
This article showed that Professor Shaw’s is a genuine good hearted individual who not only cares about his profession but also cares about the people he works with and helps out along the way. Professor Shaw went to see his friends family Widson Etienne in which he had not interacted with in 14 years. He went back not remembering where or even if the family still resided in this territory and to his surprise ‘Three steps and three seconds” he bumped into the nephew a of his friend. I this article Shaw illustrates a country that is “ravaged by droughts, hurricanes and flash floods.” Reduced to eating “Dirt Cookies” but still have humble citizens walking around who show respect and lover for one another. we as Americans only see the dark side of Haiti in the terms of the killings but we never see the real Haiti a torn apart country who just wants to live a better life then what was given to them.
Its horrifying how the news portratys Haiti to be so bad. I have to admit myself that I also believed these things about Haiti that were told to me. If we were all asked the first things that come to mind when you think about Haiti we would all probably think the same and all of them bad. I now see it is not true, you have to see things yourself in order to see what really goes on in this world. I do now see Haiti differently and their system needs to get fixed so they could live a better economic life.
I find it interesting how you would go to Haiti to help out and see things for yourself. Not many people would do that. It just clears things up for you and you get to have an opinion for yourself. Its also pretty nice to see everyone remembered you and took you in even after so many years. The news fails to mention how cool it is that everyone knows everyone and they help eachother out. Its like a big family and i can see from this article that word travels fast in Haiti.
I love this article. It is very impressive to me how you, Professor Shawn was able to go to a whole different country and make good friends and then eventually go back to reunited with them. I believe that it is very cool going to a new country and totally being comfortable with the environment and especially the people. Going to Haiti and then all of the sudden helping a friend out with his campaign is very nice of you because not everyone would do the. Reading all three of those articles for sure made me wonder more about Haiti and it also made me realized that even though those people don’t have a lot they still live a happy, normal life. That to me shows how wonderful and strong all those people are. Overall, great article.
I really enjoy the reading, is was wonderful from you that you travel to Haiti after 10 years later to visit you friend family, and is was very nice from them that they recognize you. Those are the people who really appreciate anything that you have done for them. They also need other people support becuase many of they own right are violence in they own land
Reading about your experience in Haiti was compelling. Experiencing the conditions Haiti is in and then writing about it further shows the devasting economy and society Haiti has. Haitians feeling inferior because of their race, kids that will hopefully find their way back home, and growing up with hoping they get a chance to move to the US just to have at least a small ray of hope. Yet, it is nice to know how welcoming the community can be and how delighted they are to receive foreigners in their country.
when i read your story on Haiti it was very interesting and ever details tells me the way your journey to Haiti went. the best part is to know how they do things so differently than us, here when you mention the personal hygiene part and heading to the bathroom was very very different then what we are used too. very interesting maybe one day i would go travel to Haiti to learn their way of culture and help them with what i can.
After having read the three parts of this anecdote I realized how unexpected relationships among colleagues can be. It is ironic how Widson ended up being mad about Prof. Shaw not following his commands that were something that were not going to help the society progress. After having known Widson for a while, he would’ve never thought he would be capable of trying to impose such things on his own society of his motherland. In order to make Widson see that he was wrong, he had to be blackmailed in a way. I dont think that was bad because it was all for a good cause in order to aid those in need
haiti is a country in shambles, which makes it easy to control as long as its maintained in that state. This article demonstrates such conditions but also shows a side to the community that is better understood by living within it. Great article.
It amazing the connections that one makes with others. It’s amazing to hear first hand of all the interactions you’ve had with ppl all over the world. Clearly these interactions have become a part of the person that you are. It’s a privilege to get to read so much of your personal experiences.
The article was unespected for me it bring a lot of information the I could imagine, why because I don’t know why Widson was mad with his professor he was try to do the right thing. Gave him memories back from his own country and community. I think the everything was for a good reason not disparage not body. At the end still a good article and I hope the everyone can read it.
Interesting experience, and I believe some times it is good to be happy in your life instead of having everthing for servival with out happiness. I believe even though the Haitian people are poor, they are happy with what ever they have.
Wow very nice story, I learn a lot about my neighbors from Haity. They are vey friendly people. For instance, I like the part where professor shaw mentioned that even after 10 years they recognized him and welcome him to their home.
That was a very interesting story, one part show the cruel reality of Haiti, and the other part it was just a such a adventure for the writer I guess to be able to get together with his friend’s relatives sometimes we forget that our friends in Haiti are going through such a horrible time with no food electricity or even clean water and I think we have to appreciate what we have and try to help in some ways our friends in Haiti.
This article is very important because talk about how Haiti people have been oppressed for many years, and look like nobody care about. But Danny Shaw is a generous person because usually people when travel to country , always look for the thrust areas , not poor communities .
it is interesting to know how people live in Haiti. For me it would be a dream to travel to other countries and see how the people live. It is true in Haiti exist a lot poverty, many families do not have access to certain things that cost a lot money comparing with the people who live in more developed countries. but, what we can do, one person cannot do nothing. there are other countries who are fighting for equality like Venezuela and Nicaragua which means that poverty is everywhere but we just have to know how to deal with it.
This article is very important because talk about how Haiti people have been oppressed for many years, and look like nobody care about. But Danny Shaw is a generous person because usually people when travel to a country , always look for the beautiful places like beaches that this place has. But Danny always visits the poor places and nobody do.